Brands we love, Fashion

Who Is Erdem? Erdem Moralioglu and the London House, Explained

Brands we love, Fashion

Who Is Erdem? Erdem Moralioglu and the London House, Explained

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Erdem is the London fashion house founded in 2005 by Erdem Moralioglu, a designer born in Montreal in 1977 to a Turkish father and an English mother. He trained at the Royal College of Art, and his label is known for floral prints, hand embroidery and historical references. On Coveti, Erdem dresses run from about $1,600 to $10,500.

Key facts

  • Founder and creative director: Erdem Moralioglu, born November 1977 in Montreal, Canada.
  • Education: BA in Fashion from Ryerson (now Toronto Metropolitan University), then an MA at the Royal College of Art in London, which he started in 2000 on a Chevening Scholarship.
  • Label launched in London in 2005, after work with Vivienne Westwood and Diane von Furstenberg.
  • Awards: the inaugural BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund in 2010 and British Fashion Council Womenswear Designer of the Year in 2014. He was made an MBE in the 2020 Birthday Honours.
  • Stores: a flagship on South Audley Street in Mayfair (opened 2015) and a second London store at 50A Sloane Street (opened October 2025).
  • First handbag: the Bloom bag, launched in November 2024 with a cast brass flower-bud handle.
  • Price on Coveti: Bloom bags from $1,960, gowns from about $3,800, brooches from $430.

Who is Erdem Moralioglu?

Erdem Moralioglu grew up in Montreal. His father, Erkal, was a chemical engineer from Turkey, and his mother, Marlene, was English. He studied at Marianopolis College in Montreal, then took a fashion degree at Ryerson in Toronto. An internship with Vivienne Westwood came next.

In 2000 he moved to London for a Masters at the Royal College of Art, funded by a Chevening Scholarship. After graduating he spent time in New York with Diane von Furstenberg. He came back to London and showed his first collection under his own name in 2005. Twenty years on, he is still the founder and creative director, and the house is still independent and based in London.

That independence matters for how the clothes feel. There is no conglomerate brief behind an Erdem collection. Each season starts with a person, usually a real woman from history, and the clothes are built around her. The Erdem designer hub on Coveti carries the current collections.

Erdem timeline: key years

Year Milestone
1977 Erdem Moralioglu is born in Montreal, Canada.
2000 Moves to London for an MA at the Royal College of Art on a Chevening Scholarship.
2005 Launches the Erdem label in London.
2010 Wins the inaugural BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.
2014 Named Womenswear Designer of the Year by the British Fashion Council.
2015 Opens the first flagship on South Audley Street, Mayfair.
2017 ERDEM x H&M arrives on 2 November, with a film by Baz Luhrmann and the first Erdem menswear.
2020 Made an MBE for services to fashion in the Birthday Honours.
2023 First Barbour collaboration shown on the Spring Summer 2024 runway at London Fashion Week.
2024 The Bloom bag, the first Erdem handbag, launches in November.
2025 Rizzoli publishes the first Erdem monograph in October, with a foreword by Anna Wintour. The Sloane Street store opens.
2026 The Autumn Winter 2026 show at Tate Britain, titled Impossible Conversations, marks twenty years of the label.

What is Erdem known for?

Three things show up in almost every Erdem collection. I would call them the house codes.

Prints and florals

Erdem built its name on dense floral prints. You see them on silk voile, cady, crepe and textured satin. The Floral Crepe Long Sleeve Midi Dress ($1,930) is one of the most approachable ways in. The Floral Silk Voile Long Sleeve Gown ($4,760) shows the same idea at full length.

Embroidery, lace and applique

The second code is surface work. Erdem uses lace, fil coupe, raised embroidery on wool and sequin applique. The Floral Lace Gown ($8,500) and the Fil Coupe Poplin Short Sleeve Midi Dress ($4,390) sit at two ends of that range. For Holiday 2027 the Floral Applique Sequin Long Sleeve Gown ($7,000) puts flowers cut from sequin fabric onto a long-sleeved column.

Historicism

The third code is history. Moralioglu reads archives and builds a collection around a character. The Spring 2018 collection drew on a 1958 meeting between Queen Elizabeth II and the jazz pianist Duke Ellington. The Spring Summer 2024 show took Deborah, the late Dowager Duchess of Devonshire, as its muse, with Barbour coats lined in chintz once hung at Chatsworth House. The Autumn Winter 2026 show brought back earlier muses, among them Maria Callas, the photographer Madame Yevonde and the writer Radclyffe Hall. The result is clothes with Victorian collars, Edwardian sleeves and 1950s waists, cut for now.

Who wears Erdem?

Erdem dresses a long list of public figures. These are wearers I could confirm from published reports:

  • Catherine, Princess of Wales (then Duchess of Cambridge) wore an off-the-shoulder Erdem tweed dress from the Spring 2018 collection to the Victoria and Albert Museum, and the Shebah floral gown to the Chelsea Flower Show in 2019.
  • Meghan, Duchess of Sussex wore a green Erdem tweed dress with sequin embroidery to her first Commonwealth Day engagement at Canada House in March 2019.
  • Princess Eugenie was named with the Princess of Wales as an Erdem client in reports of his 2020 MBE.
  • Keira Knightley wore a purple Erdem gown to the 2015 SAG Awards and a brocade Fall 2014 dress to the New York premiere party for Begin Again.
  • Emma Watson wore an embroidered Fall 2014 Erdem dress at a New York party for Noah, and a tweed Pre Spring 2016 dress on the European press tour for Regression.

Erdem collaborations: H&M, Barbour and The Royal Mint

ERDEM x H&M (2017)

The H&M designer collaboration went on sale on 2 November 2017 in selected stores and online. Erdem reworked prints and lace from his best-known collections, and designed menswear for the first time. Baz Luhrmann directed the campaign film. It remains the easiest way to find Erdem prints at high street prices, though only on resale today.

Erdem x Barbour (2023 to Autumn Winter 2026)

The Barbour partnership started on the Spring Summer 2024 runway in September 2023. Erdem turned the waxed country jacket into a trapeze coat and lined it with floral quilting. A capsule of four styles named after flowers (Beauflower, Dhalia, Clover and Constance) followed in January 2025. The pairing continues with ERDEM x Barbour Autumn Winter 2026.

Bloom jewellery made with The Royal Mint

The Bloom jewellery line is made with The Royal Mint in 925 sterling silver plated in 18 karat gold vermeil, using recovered precious metals. It takes the bud shape of the bag handle and shrinks it down. On Coveti the Bloom Brooch is $1,030, the Bloom Necklace is $1,090 and the Bloom Loop Earrings are $900. See the wider designer jewellery edit for more.

What is the Erdem Bloom bag?

The Bloom bag is the first handbag from Erdem, launched in November 2024 for Pre Spring 2025. Its handle is a flower bud cast in brass with a light gold finish. Erdem says each handle takes seven hours to produce using the lost wax casting method, a technique more often used for fine jewellery.

The family now runs from Micro to Large, with an East West shape and a Minaudiere for evening. Prices on Coveti:

Bloom size Example on Coveti Price (USD)
Micro Micro Bloom Bag in Black Velvet $1,960
East West East West Bloom Bag in Black Leather $1,960
Mini Mini Bloom Bag in Black Leather $2,900
Midi Midi Bloom Bag in Black Leather $3,460
Large Large Bloom Bag in Black Grain Leather $3,830
Minaudiere Bloom Minaudiere in Black Embellished Satin $4,390

The feather Mini Bloom bags are also $4,390. For sizing, colours and how each shape carries, read the Erdem Bloom bag guide, and browse all designer mini bags.

Where are the Erdem stores in London?

Erdem opened its first flagship in 2015 on South Audley Street in Mayfair, close to Mount Street. It covers about 2,000 square feet over two floors and was designed by the London architects P Joseph. In October 2025, ten years later, a second store opened at 50A Sloane Street in a 1920s Art Deco building, again designed by P Joseph.

If you are not in London, the label sells through its own website and through stockists. Our guide to where to buy Erdem covers the options.

How much does Erdem cost?

Erdem sits at the top of designer ready-to-wear pricing. The fabrics are heavy satins, silk voiles and embroidered wools, and many pieces carry embroidery. These are the current Coveti ranges in USD:

Category Price range on Coveti (USD)
Dresses $1,600 to $10,500
Evening gowns $3,800 to $9,400
Bloom bags $1,960 to $4,390
Earrings $660 to $1,180
Brooches $430 to $1,400
Silk scarves $580 to $790

The lowest entry point is a Pearl Alphabet Brooch at $430, made in every letter from A to Z. A Floral Print Silk Scarf is $660. At the top end, the Embroidered Textured Satin Bustier Gown is $9,430. For a line-by-line breakdown see the Erdem price guide.

How to buy Erdem at Coveti

Coveti carries Erdem ready-to-wear across Pre Fall 2026, Autumn Winter 2026 and Holiday 2027. That covers designer dresses, evening gowns, skirts, knitwear and tailoring. New this season are the Bloom bags, Flora shoulder and chain bags, bag charms, pearl and crystal jewellery, embroidered headbands, silk scarves, belts and cashmere beanies.

Ready-to-wear comes in UK sizes 4 to 18, and knitwear in XXS to XXL. Erdem fit notes describe the clothes as true to size. A UK 8 is a US 4, an EU 36 and an IT 40. A UK 10 is a US 6. The Erdem size guide has the full conversion table.

Orders ship worldwide from our UAE and Australia hubs by DHL Express and FedEx International Priority. Every parcel is insured and needs a signature. Most regions ship Delivered Duty Unpaid, so local import duties are paid on arrival. Our returns protocol explains how returns work.

A few pieces I would start with: the Floral Duchess Midi Dress ($4,020) for daytime events, the Floral Embroidered Wool Midi Skirt ($3,640) for winter, and the Embellished Merino Wool Cardigan ($1,960) to wear over both. Our edit of the best Erdem dresses goes deeper, and if you like the look, brands like Erdem lists nine labels in the same romantic vein.

Frequently asked questions

Who is the designer behind Erdem?

Erdem is designed by Erdem Moralioglu, who was born in Montreal in 1977 to a Turkish father and an English mother. He studied fashion at Ryerson in Toronto and at the Royal College of Art in London, then launched his label in London in 2005. He remains its founder and creative director.

Is Erdem a British brand?

Yes. Erdem is a London fashion house. Erdem Moralioglu is Canadian-born, but he founded the label in London in 2005 and shows at London Fashion Week. He was made an MBE for services to fashion in 2020.

What is Erdem known for?

Erdem is known for floral prints, lace, hand embroidery and collections built around women from history. Its dresses mix Victorian and 1950s shapes with modern fabrics, and its first handbag, the Bloom bag, has a cast brass flower-bud handle.

Which royals have worn Erdem?

Catherine, Princess of Wales has worn Erdem many times, including a floral gown at the 2019 Chelsea Flower Show. Meghan, Duchess of Sussex wore a green Erdem tweed dress on Commonwealth Day in 2019, and Princess Eugenie is also a client.

How much is an Erdem dress?

On Coveti, Erdem dresses cost roughly $1,600 to $10,500, and evening gowns run from about $3,800 to $9,400. Price depends on fabric and handwork, with embroidered satin and sequin pieces at the top.

Where is the Erdem store in London?

The Erdem flagship is on South Audley Street in Mayfair and opened in 2015. A second London store opened at 50A Sloane Street in October 2025.

Did Erdem collaborate with H&M?

Yes. ERDEM x H&M launched on 2 November 2017, with womenswear and the first Erdem menswear, and a campaign film by Baz Luhrmann. The collection is now only available on resale sites.

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