Backless Dresses: Open Back, Racer Back, Cowl Back and Bow Back Explained

A backless dress is any dress whose back is cut open below the shoulder blades, and the style of the opening decides how formal it looks and what you can wear underneath. Shona Joy’s new Campbell Bow Backless Maxi Dress and Campbell Bow Backless Mini Dress tie at the open back with a bow; the new Savanna Racer Back Maxi Dress in Black and Burgundy have a low T bar racer back. Below, every back style, with the Shona Joy dresses that use it.

Five kinds of open back

Racer back: straps meet in a single bar at the centre back, leaving the shoulder blades bare. Sporty in origin and surprisingly formal in satin. Cowl back: fabric drapes in folds down the back, often to the waist. The most fluid and the most formal. Crossover back: two wide straps cross at the back. Lace up back: a tie runs through loops, so you adjust the fit. Bow back: the opening closes with a tie that can be adjusted, a softer, playful finish.

Backless maxi dresses

1. Campbell Bow Backless Maxi Dress

Stretch cotton of 56% cotton, 40% nylon and 4% elastane, with a round sleeveless neckline, a fitted bodice gathered at the waist, a centre back split and an open back with an adjustable bow. Slim fit through the waist and body. For cocktail and evening.

2. Savanna Racer Back Maxi Dress in Black

Satin acetate of 74% acetate and 26% polyester, a low scoop neck, a low T bar racer back and a relaxed skirt with no zip. For formal evening weddings and black tie.

3. Savanna Racer Back Maxi Dress in Burgundy

The same new racer back satin slip in a deep wine burgundy. For autumn weddings and as a bridesmaid dress.

4. La Lune One Shoulder Cowl Back Maxi Dress in Black

La Lune bias cut satin with a one shoulder neckline, double rouleau straps and a low cowl back. The most fluid back in the collection.

5. La Lune Plunged Cross Back Maxi Dress in Shiraz

La Lune satin in Shiraz with a low plunging neckline, an empire waist and an open back with wide crossover straps.

6. La Lune Lace Back Maxi Dress in Shiraz

La Lune satin in Shiraz with a cowl neckline, ruching at the waist and a low open back closed by a lace up adjustable tie.

Backless mini dresses

7. Campbell Bow Backless Mini Dress

Stretch cotton with a round sleeveless neckline, a fitted bodice with a gathered yoke, side pockets, a centre back split and an open back with an adjustable bow. Fitted through the bodice and relaxed through the skirt.

8. Eniko Lace Open Back Mini Dress in Black

Matte satin with a round halter neckline, an open cowl back, lace at the neckline and hem, and a button and loop at the centre back. Slim fit.

Which open back suits which occasion?

A cowl back in floor length satin is the most formal: black tie and evening weddings. A racer back in satin works at formal and semi formal events. A crossover and a lace up back suit bridesmaids, since the lace up adjusts to each body. A bow back in stretch cotton works for cocktail parties and daytime weddings. For a religious ceremony, cover the back with a long scarf such as the Lucent Scarf in Black and remove it at the reception.

What to wear underneath

Lined, fitted bodices like the Campbell bow styles give some support on their own. Deeper backs such as the La Lune cowl call for adhesive cups. The full breakdown is in what bra to wear with a backless dress.

Choosing the right size in a backless dress

An open back has no fabric to stretch across your shoulder blades, so the bodice has to fit closely to stay in place. Size for your bust first. Check Shona Joy’s fit note: “fitted through bodice” (Campbell Bow Backless Mini Dress) means the top hugs the body, while “designed to sit away from the body” (Savanna) means the straps carry the dress. Adjustable details help: the bow on the Campbell styles and the lace up tie on the La Lune lace back let you fine tune the fit on the day.

How Shona Joy sizing works

Shona Joy cuts in Australian sizes, and an AU size carries the same number as a UK size, so an AU8 is a UK 8. Coveti lists every style in UK sizes, and the size guide on each product page converts UK sizing to US, Italian, French and German sizes. The brand also states the model’s size on every page: on the new Savanna and Campbell maxis the model is 178cm and wears an AU8. Read the fit note before you choose. “Designed to sit away from the body” leaves room through the hips, “slim fit” follows your shape, and “fitted” sits close everywhere, so the fit note matters more than the label.

Caring for satin and stretch cotton

Shona Joy’s own care instructions are gentle across the range. The Savanna satin acetate: turn inside out, cold hand wash separately with mild soap, cold rinse, do not wring, soak, bleach, nor tumble dry, dry flat in the shade, and cool iron on the reverse with a protective cloth. The La Lune satin follows the same routine and is also dry cleanable. The Campbell stretch cotton: a delicate cold hand wash with like colours, then air dry flat in the shade without delay and ease it back into shape. A steamer is the safest way to drop creases from satin before an event.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a backless dress and an open back dress?

The terms overlap. Backless usually means the back is bare to the waist; open back covers any cut-out back, including a racer back, keyhole and crossover straps.

Are backless dresses appropriate for a wedding?

Yes for most receptions and evening weddings. For a religious ceremony, bring a scarf and a jacket to cover the back during the service.

What do you wear under a backless maxi dress?

An adhesive stick on bra, silicone cups and lift tape for a deep back, and a low back bra under a racer back. Seamless underwear in a skin tone shade keeps the line clean.

Is a backless dress comfortable to wear all night?

A dress with a lined, fitted bodice and adjustable straps stays in place best. A bow and a lace up back let you fine tune the fit.

Which backless dress style is most formal?

A floor length satin dress with a low cowl back is the most formal, such as the La Lune One Shoulder Cowl Back Maxi Dress.

Related guides: what bra to wear with a backless dress, bow dresses, black maxi dresses, strapless, halter and off shoulder dresses, satin maxi dresses, designer maxi dresses, designer mini dresses.