Bias Cut Dresses: What the Bias Cut Is, Who It Suits and How to Wear It

A bias cut dress is cut diagonally across the weave of the fabric, at 45 degrees to the straight grain, so the cloth falls in soft folds and follows the body as you move. It is the cut behind the classic slip dress and the satin evening gown. Below, how the bias cut works, who it suits and how to size it, followed by the bias cut pieces from Shona Joy at Coveti, several of them in the brand’s La Lune satin. Browse the full edit of designer maxi dresses for more.

What does bias cut mean?

Woven fabric has two straight grains: the lengthwise warp and the crosswise weft. Cut along either and the fabric holds its shape. Cut across the diagonal, the bias, and the same cloth gains a natural give, even with no elastane in it. That give is why a bias cut skirt swings, why a bias cut slip dress drapes over the hips rather than standing away from them, and why a bias cut hem falls in a gentle wave.

The technique is old, but the bias cut evening dress is usually credited to the Paris couturier Madeleine Vionnet, who built whole gowns on the bias in the 1920s and 1930s. It became the signature of 1930s Hollywood satin, returned with the 1990s slip dress, and is now a staple of bridal and occasion dressing.

Why a bias cut dress looks different

Drape: the fabric falls into fluid folds instead of stiff pleats. Movement: the hem moves with every step. Fit without fastenings: the give lets many bias cut slips pull on without a zip. Light: on satin, the diagonal grain catches light in long, soft highlights.

Who suits a bias cut dress?

Every body shape can wear the bias, with the right fabric weight and silhouette. A heavier satin with a lining smooths the line and is more forgiving than a thin, unlined slip. A bias cut skirt with a structured top suits anyone who wants definition at the bust. A slip silhouette “designed to be worn away from the body”, like the La Lune One Shoulder Cowl Back, skims rather than clings. A fitted bias cut dress, like the La Lune Plunged Cross Back, follows the body more closely.

Shona Joy bias cut dresses

1. La Lune One Shoulder Cowl Back Maxi Dress in Black

La Lune soft touch satin in LENZING ECOVERO viscose, lined. One shoulder neckline with double adjustable rouleau straps, a low cowl back and a maxi skirt cut on the bias. Fit: slip silhouette, designed to be worn away from the body. Also in Cream, Lemon and Blossom.

2. La Lune Plunged Cross Back Maxi Dress in Shiraz

La Lune soft touch satin in LENZING ECOVERO viscose, lined. Low plunging neckline with a ruched bust, open back with wide crossover straps, an exaggerated empire waist and a maxi skirt cut on the bias. Fit: slim, designed to skim the body. Also in Lemon.

3. La Lune Lace Cross Back Maxi Dress in Cream

La Lune soft touch satin in LENZING ECOVERO viscose, lined. A low plunging neckline edged in lace, an exaggerated empire waist, wide crossover straps at the back and a bias cut maxi skirt. Fit: slim. A natural choice for a bride, a bridal shower and a rehearsal dinner.

4. La Lune Gathered One Shoulder Maxi Dress in Midnight

La Lune soft touch satin in LENZING ECOVERO viscose, lined. Asymmetrical neckline, ruching at the bust and waist, invisible side zip and a maxi skirt cut on the bias. Fit: fitted through the bust and waist, slim through the rest of the body.

5. La Lune Ruched Halter Maxi Dress in Midnight

La Lune soft touch satin in LENZING ECOVERO viscose. Long wide tie halter straps, a cut out at the waist and a midi length cut on the bias. Fit: fitted through the bust, slim through the body; for a fuller bust the brand recommends going up one size on this style. Also in Espresso, and in a maxi length in Fern.

6. Agnes Ruffle Slip Bias Maxi Dress in Black

Matte finish satin (62% viscose, 38% ECOVERO viscose), with a V neck cutout and ruffle trim, an asymmetrical ruffle on the shoulder and an open low back. The brand names it a slip bias maxi. Fit: slim, designed to skim the body. Also in Wine Tasting.

Bias cut skirts and pants

The bias works on separates too. The Lucia Lace Knee Length Skirt in Espresso is a bias cut midi skirt in satin acetate with a cut out lace hem, designed to sit on the hips. The La Lune Bias Cut Pant in Cream has legs cut on the bias, a high waist and a flared leg; the brand recommends sizing up when you are between sizes. The Savanna Bias Cut Pant in Champagne and Savanna Bias Pant in Coffee are high rise satin acetate with a concealed elasticated waistband and a slim leg. Pair any of them with the Savanna Scoop Neck Top in Champagne for an easy satin set; see Shona Joy matching sets.

How to wear a bias cut dress

Underwear: satin on the bias shows every line, so choose seamless, low rise briefs in your skin tone, and for a cowl back read our guide to backless dresses. Shoes: decide before you hem; a bias cut maxi should just skim the floor, and strappy sandals suit the fluid line. Layers: a cropped jacket and a tailored blazer give the slip structure for daytime; the La Lune Flared Sleeve Belted Blazer in Cream matches the La Lune satin exactly. Jewellery: keep it fine, a single chain and drop earrings, so the drape stays the focus. For more ideas, read how to wear a slip dress and how to style a satin slip dress.

What to wear a bias cut dress to

Black tie: the La Lune cowl back in Black. Evening weddings as a guest: the plunged cross back in Shiraz and the gathered one shoulder in Midnight. Bridesmaids: mix the La Lune styles in one shade; see the Shona Joy bridesmaid dresses guide. Bridal events: the lace cross back in Cream. Cocktail parties: the halter midi.

How Shona Joy sizing works

Shona Joy cuts in Australian sizes, and an AU size carries the same number as a UK size, so an AU8 is a UK 8. Coveti lists every style in UK sizes, and the size guide on each product page converts UK sizing to US, Italian, French and German sizes. Read the brand’s fit note before you choose: “designed to sit away from the body” leaves room, “slim fit, designed to skim the body” follows your shape without clinging, and “fitted style” sits close everywhere. Where the brand gives a sizing instruction, follow it. It recommends sizing up on the La Lune Lace Back when you are between sizes, sizing down on the La Lune Strapless Column, and sizing up on the Lambent bodysuit. For more, read is Shona Joy true to size.

Caring for satin

Shona Joy’s own care instructions for its satins are gentle: turn the piece inside out, cold hand wash separately with mild soap, cold rinse, do not wring, soak, bleach nor tumble dry, dry flat in the shade, and cool iron on the reverse with a protective cloth. A handheld steamer is the safest way to drop creases from satin on the day. Store bias cut pieces folded over a padded hanger, not hung by the straps, so the hem does not drop over time.

Frequently asked questions

What is a bias cut dress?

A bias cut dress is cut diagonally across the weave of the fabric, at 45 degrees to the straight grain. The diagonal gives woven fabric a natural stretch and drape, so the dress follows the body and moves as you walk.

Who made the bias cut famous?

The Paris couturier Madeleine Vionnet is credited with building whole evening gowns on the bias in the 1920s and 1930s. The cut defined 1930s Hollywood satin gowns and returned with the 1990s slip dress.

Are bias cut dresses flattering?

Yes, when the fabric and silhouette suit you. A lined, heavier satin smooths the line, and a slip “designed to be worn away from the body” skims rather than clings. A closer fitting bias cut follows your shape more closely.

Should I size up in a bias cut dress?

Follow the brand fit note. Shona Joy recommends going up one size on the La Lune Ruched Halter for a fuller bust and sizing up on the La Lune Bias Cut Pant when you are between sizes. Its relaxed slip silhouettes usually take your usual size.

Which Shona Joy dresses are cut on the bias?

Shona Joy lists the skirt as cut on the bias on the La Lune One Shoulder Cowl Back, La Lune Plunged Cross Back, La Lune Lace Cross Back, La Lune Gathered One Shoulder and La Lune Ruched Halter maxi dresses, and the Agnes Long Sleeve Maxi Dress with Belt has a bias cut maxi skirt.

How do you care for a bias cut satin dress?

Hand wash cold, inside out, with mild soap, dry flat in the shade, and steam out creases. Store it folded over a padded hanger so the hem does not drop.

Related guides: satin maxi dresses, how to wear a slip dress, how to style a satin slip dress, Shona Joy La Lune guide, Shona Joy gold dresses, green bridesmaid dresses, Shona Joy winter wedding guest dresses, Shona Joy black tie dresses.