Types of Coats: A Glossary of 21 Coat Styles for Women

The main types of coats for women fall into four families: tailored coats (double-breasted, overcoat, pea coat, redingote), soft coats (wrap, robe, cocoon, kimono, cape), weather coats (trench, parka, puffer, duster) and textured coats (teddy, shearling, leather, tweed). Max Mara, the Italian coat specialist founded in 1951, makes an example of almost every one, from the double-breasted 101801 to the Teddy Bear coat.

Key facts

• Four families: tailored, soft, weather and textured coats cover almost every style you will see in a shop.
• The double-breasted benchmark: the Max Mara 101801, designed by Anne-Marie Beretta in 1981, in wool and cashmere with kimono sleeves.
• The wrap benchmark: the Max Mara Manuela, a house classic in pure camel hair with a notched collar and a belt.
• The teddy benchmark: the Max Mara Teddy Bear coat, first shown on the Autumn/Winter 2013 runway and designed by Ian Griffiths.
• Weatherproof line: Max Mara The Cube makes the house’s padded and water-repellent outerwear, from puffers to trench coats.
• Where to buy: Coveti stocks every type below in Max Mara and ships to the US.

Tailored coats

Tailored coats have structure: defined shoulders, lapels and buttons. They suit work wardrobes and look right over suits.

Double-breasted coat

Two parallel columns of buttons and an overlapping front, usually with wide lapels. It is the warmest tailored cut because the front is two layers deep. Max Mara example: the Madame 101801 Icon Coat, from $5,170, and the Weekend Max Mara Resina, from $1,580.

Overcoat

A long, straight coat worn over everything else, traditionally single-breasted, with a simple collar. It is the plainest and most adaptable coat shape. Max Mara example: the Studio Giambo Long Wool Beaver Cloth Coat, from $2,250.

Pea coat

A short, double-breasted wool coat with broad lapels, first worn by sailors. It stops at the hip, so it works with jeans and trousers. Max Mara example: the Alpe Double-Breasted Wool Pea Coat, from $1,150.

Redingote

A long coat fitted through the body and flared from the waist, borrowed from the riding coat. It gives a defined, feminine outline. Max Mara example: the Verbena Wool and Cashmere Redingote Coat, from $6,040.

Tuxedo coat

A long tailored coat with peak lapels taken from evening menswear. Black is traditional, and it is the smartest coat to wear over evening clothes. Max Mara example: the Studio Effige Double-Breasted Tuxedo Wool Coat, from $2,210.

Chesterfield coat

A knee-length, single-breasted overcoat, traditionally with a velvet collar. It is a menswear classic that women borrow for a sharp, formal look. There is no Max Mara Chesterfield in the current edit; the Giambo overcoat above gives a similar line.

Soft and wrapped coats

Soft coats drape rather than stand. Most have no buttons, kimono and raglan sleeves, and a belt.

Wrap coat

A coat with no buttons that wraps across the body and ties with a belt. You choose where the waist sits, which is why it flatters so many figures. Max Mara example: the Manuela Icon Coat in pure camel hair, from $4,290, and the Pedale Wool Wrap Coat, from $1,460.

Robe coat

A longer, looser wrap coat, cut like a dressing gown, often with a shawl collar. It looks relaxed and expensive at the same time. Max Mara example: the ‘S Max Mara Poldo Wool Broadcloth Robe Coat, from $1,810.

Cocoon coat

A rounded coat that curves out from the shoulder and narrows at the hem, like an egg. It suits petite women because it adds presence without length. Max Mara example: the Studio Nembo Cocoon Wool Coat, from $2,100, and the Atelier Macina Cashmere Cocoon Coat, from $7,140.

Kimono coat

A long, loose, collarless coat with wide sleeves cut in one with the body. It is the most fluid coat shape. Max Mara example: the Atelier Divo Combed Wool Kimono Coat, from $6,040.

Cardigan coat

A straight, collarless coat that copies the line of a cardigan, usually in a soft cloth. It feels like knitwear and looks like a coat. Max Mara example: the Lilia Midi Cashmere Cardigan Coat, from $7,810.

Cape and cloak

A sleeveless outer layer that hangs from the shoulders, with openings for the arms. A cloak is the longer, fuller version. Max Mara example: the Colomba Double Wool Broadcloth Cloak, from $1,430, and the Atelier Ottanta Jacquard Cape Coat, from $5,600. Read our guide to cape coats for women.

Weather coats

Weather coats are built for rain, wind and snow first, and style second. Max Mara puts most of them in Max Mara The Cube.

Trench coat

A belted, usually double-breasted coat in water-repellent gabardine, with a storm flap and epaulettes taken from military dress. It is the classic spring and autumn coat. Max Mara example: the Giusto Wool-Blend Gabardine Trench Coat, from $3,620, and the Weekend Max Mara Angus, from $1,220.

Parka

A hooded, weatherproof coat to mid-thigh and longer, often padded and with a drawstring waist. It is the practical coat for cold, wet days. Max Mara example: the Weekend Max Mara Newbembo Water-Repellent Taffeta Midi Parka, from $1,230.

Puffer coat

A quilted coat filled with insulation, usually goose down, which traps warm air in each channel. It is the warmest coat for its weight. Max Mara example: the Max Mara The Cube Abete Long Quilted Water-Repellent Puffer, from $2,160. See our women’s puffer jackets guide.

Duster coat

A long, light, unstructured coat, originally worn on horseback to keep dust off. Today it is a fluid layer for mild days. Max Mara example: the Studio Portici Suede Duster Coat, from $2,240.

Textured coats

Textured coats are defined by their surface rather than their cut.

Teddy coat

A coat in a deep, plush pile that looks like a teddy bear’s coat. It is warm, casual and instantly recognisable. Max Mara example: the Teddy Bear Icon Coat in camel hair and silk, from $5,280, and the Weekend Max Mara Tempera Wool and Alpaca Teddy Coat, from $1,670. Read our Max Mara Teddy Bear coat review.

Shearling coat

A coat made from sheepskin with the wool left on, worn wool side in. It is very warm and very heavy. Max Mara example: the Martora Sheepskin Robe Coat, from $14,410.

Leather coat

A coat cut from smooth leather and suede, from a short pea coat to a midi overcoat. It blocks wind well and softens with age. Max Mara example: the Magenta Nappa Leather Overcoat, from $7,140, and the Weekend Max Mara Felino Nappa Leather Pea Coat, from $1,320.

Tweed coat

A coat in a rough, textured wool weave, often in a mix of colours. It has a country feel and hides wear well. Max Mara example: the Tema Long Wool-Blend Tweed Coat, from $1,490.

Shacket

A shirt-cut jacket in a coat-weight cloth, halfway between the two. It works as a light coat in autumn and a top layer indoors. Max Mara example: the Alfio Woollen Cloth Shacket, from $2,960.

Types of coats at a glance

Which type of coat should you buy first?

Start with a midi wrap coat in a neutral wool, then add a double-breasted coat. Both work over suits, knits and dresses. Add a trench for spring and autumn, then a puffer and a parka if you live somewhere with real winters. Statement shapes such as capes, teddy coats and leather coats come last, once the basics are covered. For a fuller buying guide, read our pieces on women’s wool coats and the best camel coats for women.

One of each: the Max Mara coats to shop by type

1. Madame 101801 Icon Coat in Camel

The double-breasted coat, in wool and cashmere. The one to buy if you wear tailoring. From $5,170.

2. Manuela Icon Coat in Camel

The wrap coat, in pure camel hair with a belt. The most versatile coat here. From $4,290.

3. Poldo Wool Broadcloth Robe Coat in Camel

The robe coat, hand-sewn in pure wool double broadcloth. From $1,810.

4. Nembo Cocoon Wool Coat in Black

The cocoon coat, in pure wool beaver cloth with a pussy-bow neck. From $2,100.

5. Giusto Wool-Blend Gabardine Trench Coat in Khaki

The trench coat, long and double-breasted in water-repellent gabardine. From $3,620.

6. Alpe Double-Breasted Wool Pea Coat in Navy

The pea coat, in double-sided pure wool drap. From $1,150.

7. Teddy Bear Icon Coat in Camel

The teddy coat, in camel hair and silk pile. From $5,280.

8. Seia Roomy Water-Repellent Puffer Jacket in Black

The short puffer, filled with goose down, from Max Mara The Cube. From $1,400.

9. Colomba Double Wool Broadcloth Cloak in Camel

The cloak, in pure wool double broadcloth with a leather belt. From $1,430.

Where can I buy Max Mara coats in the US?

Coveti stocks Max Mara coats in every type above and ships to the US by DHL Express and FedEx International Priority. Shop the full Max Mara collection and our women’s coats. Orders ship Delivered Duty Unpaid, so import duties are usually payable on arrival.

Frequently asked questions

What are the main types of coats for women?

The main types are the double-breasted coat, overcoat, pea coat, wrap coat, robe coat, cocoon coat, cape, trench, parka, puffer, duster, teddy coat and leather coat. They fall into four families: tailored, soft, weather and textured. Max Mara makes an example of nearly every one.

What is the difference between a wrap coat and a robe coat?

Both close with a belt rather than buttons. A robe coat is the longer, looser version, cut like a dressing gown, often with a shawl collar. A wrap coat is usually a little more tailored. The Max Mara Manuela is a wrap coat; the ‘S Max Mara Poldo is a robe coat.

What is the most classic type of coat?

The double-breasted camel coat and the trench coat are the two most classic shapes. Max Mara’s 101801, designed by Anne-Marie Beretta in 1981, is one of the best-known double-breasted coats in fashion. A beige trench in cotton gabardine is the equivalent for spring.

Which type of coat is the warmest?

A long down-filled puffer is the warmest for its weight, followed by shearling and teddy coats. Among smooth coats, the warmest is a long coat in double cloth; camel hair and cashmere beat plain wool for the same weight. Max Mara The Cube makes the house’s padded coats.

What is a Max Mara cocoon coat?

A cocoon coat curves out from the shoulders and narrows at the hem. Max Mara makes several, including the Studio Nembo in pure wool beaver cloth, the ‘S Max Mara Arona and the Atelier Macina in felted cashmere. The rounded line adds presence without length, so cocoon coats suit petite women well.

What type of coat suits a petite woman?

Short and cocoon coats suit petite women best, along with straight midi coats that stop just below the knee. Avoid very long, wide coats unless the cut is slim. The Max Mara Rebus, a short version of the 101801, keeps the classic look at a shorter length.

Shop every coat type in our Max Mara edit, then read the Max Mara coats guide and how to style a camel coat.