Polène Woven Bags: Solé, Nomad Solé, Tsubi Raffia and Ilo Guide

Polène makes three woven bags and one canvas bag: the Solé, a small top-handle bag of leather pebble-pearls; the Nomad Solé, a larger flat shopper of the same pearls; the Tsubi, a raffia shoulder bag; and the Ilo, a cotton canvas tote. The pearls are made in France from upcycled leather offcuts, the Tsubi uses certified-organic raffia from Madagascar, and the Nomad Solé is woven in Madagascar.

Polène is the Paris house founded in 2016 by Antoine, Mathieu and Elsa Mothay, best known for folded calf leather made in Ubrique, Spain, which makes these four the outliers of the line. Our guide to where Polène bags are made explains the Spanish workshops; this piece covers the textures that sit beside them, how each one behaves day to day, and why none of them needs to be put away when summer ends.

Polène Solé: the pebble-pearl bag

The Solé is built from small rounded leather pearls threaded on waxed cotton, finished with a smooth Italian calf handle and base stamped with the Polène name. Every pearl is cut from leather left over from other bags, so no two have the same marbling, and a Solé in a single colour still shows a faint variation from bead to bead. It measures 26.5 x 15.5 x 7 cm, stands 47 cm tall including the handles and weighs 666 g, heavier than it looks because leather beads are dense.

Inside sits a removable pouch in recycled cotton, held by snap fasteners, with a leather-covered magnetic closure. That pouch is what makes the bag practical: without it, a woven body would let keys slip between the pearls. It holds a phone, cardholder, keys and sunglasses, with room for a lipstick, but not a full wallet as well.

The Solé in Tan Bag is the warmest of the four shades and the one that looks most like a summer basket. The Solé in Oat Bag is paler and quieter, the Solé in Ebony Bag a deep brown, and the Solé in Black Bag the one to choose if you want it to read as an evening bag first.

One note the brand is open about: new pearls smell strongly of leather. Leave the bag out of its dust bag for the first few uses and the scent settles.

Nomad Solé: the large woven shopper

The Nomad Solé takes the same pearls and turns them into a wide, flat tote of 37 x 35 x 3 cm. The handles are hand-woven, there is a patch pocket inside the pouch, and it closes with a magnet. It can be carried by hand, in the crook of the elbow and on the shoulder. Unlike the rest of the range, it is made in Madagascar, with the pearls themselves made in France.

Two numbers explain how it carries. At 1,102 g it is one of the heavier Polène bags before you put anything in it, and at 3 cm deep it is a flat bag, so an A4 notebook, a slim book and a scarf fit well, but a water bottle bulges. Think of it as a document tote with texture rather than a beach bag.

The Nomad Solé in Porcelain Bag is the palest and the most summery. The Nomad Solé in Tan Bag matches the smaller Solé in Tan if you want a pair, and the Nomad Solé in Ebony Tinted Bag is the darkest and most useful from October onwards. Our edit of Polène tote bags sets it against the leather totes.

Polène Tsubi: the raffia bag

The Tsubi is Polène’s raffia bag: a compact shoulder bag of 20 x 26 x 7 cm in natural, certified-organic raffia from Madagascar, trimmed in smooth Italian calf. It weighs just 365 g, closes with a magnetic tab and hangs from an adjustable shoulder strap. It takes a phone, cardholder, keys and sunglasses, about the same as a Solé, but feels half the weight on the shoulder.

The Tsubi in Natural Bag is the classic straw tone. The Tsubi in Laurel Bag is green, and works with white linen and navy, while the Tsubi in Ebony Bag is the version most likely to cross into winter. If the Tsubi feels too small, our guide to Polène mini bags compares it with the leather minis.

Ilo: the canvas tote

The Ilo is not woven, but it belongs in the same conversation. The Ilo in Sand Bag is a 38 x 35 cm tote in water-repellent cotton canvas with smooth Italian calf trim, a cotton lining and a 30 cm handle that sits comfortably on the shoulder. At 450 g it is light for its size, and it swallows an A4 notebook, a cardigan and a book. It is the one to take to a market, a train journey and a long lunch in the same day.

Caring for pearls, raffia and canvas

Each material wants something slightly different, so here are the brand’s care notes in one place.

• Solé and Nomad Solé pearls: sensitive to water, so keep them in a tote on rainy days. Do not spray perfume onto the bag, and air new pearls out of the dust bag at first. The cotton pouch can be lifted out to shake crumbs from the base.
• Tsubi raffia: raffia is fragile and changes over time. Avoid rubbing it against a rough coat, keep it out of strong light and heat, and keep it dry. Store it stuffed with tissue so the shape holds.
• Ilo canvas: machine washing, tumble drying and ironing are all out. Do not rub a stain, which spreads it; blot gently and let it dry naturally.
• The leather trims: treat the calf handles and bases as you would any Polène leather; our sibling Polène leather guide covers this.

Which Polène woven bag to choose

For a small bag you will use every weekend, the Solé is the most distinctive and the most durable. For lightness and a holiday mood, the Tsubi. For carrying papers and a slim notebook to the office, the Nomad Solé, though its weight is real. And for a relaxed everyday carryall that shrugs off a shower, the Ilo.

If you like the upcycled idea but want leather through and through, the Béri in Onda Fresh Almond Bag brings texture in leather alone; see our Polène Béri guide. The Nodde Seau in Sand Bag is a bucket shape in the same pale family as the Ilo, and the Cyme Tote Nano in Linden Bag gives you a handheld basket silhouette in leather, explained in our Polène Cyme Tote guide. For a much larger leather alternative to the Nomad Solé, the Polène Shuldo guide is worth a read. Browse every shape in designer tote bags.

Wearing woven bags beyond summer

Raffia and leather pearls are linked with July, but the darker versions work well into autumn. The Solé in Ebony with a camel coat and loafers looks deliberate rather than seasonal, because leather pearls have weight and sheen that straw does not. The Tsubi in Ebony pairs with a chunky knit and dark denim on dry days.

The trick is contrast in texture rather than colour: a woven bag against smooth wool, cashmere and leather boots. Keep the paler Natural, Porcelain and Oat shades for spring and summer, when a white shirt and linen trousers suit them best. For more shade ideas, see Polène bags by colour.

Polène woven bags around the world

United Kingdom

Britain is where the Solé is searched for most. Showery summers argue for the leather pearls over raffia, but keep either one in a tote when rain is forecast. Polène lists a London boutique.

United States

In New York, where the brand lists boutiques on Broadway and in SoHo, the Nomad Solé works as a summer office tote. Across the warmer southern states, the Tsubi earns its keep through a long season.

France, Germany and Europe

Paris has the Rue de Richelieu flagship and a Champs-Élysées boutique, and the brand also lists Hamburg, Milan and Copenhagen. Italy shows strong interest in raffia bags, and a Tsubi with linen is classic Mediterranean holiday dress.

Japan

The brand lists a Tokyo boutique in Minami-Aoyama. Japanese summers are humid, so the canvas Ilo and the pearl Solé are better choices than raffia during the rainy season in June and July.

Australia

Australia is one of the strongest markets for raffia bags. Seasons run opposite to Europe, so the Tsubi and paler Solé shades come into their own from September to March, and the Ebony versions carry through the cooler months from June.

Canada

Canada also searches for raffia bags. With short, hot summers and long winters, the Ilo and the darker Solé shades give the best return on wear.

Polène woven bags: common questions

Where is the Polène Nomad Solé made?

The Polène Nomad Solé is made in Madagascar. Its pebble-pearls are made in France from upcycled leather offcuts.

What are the Polène Solé pearls made of?

The pearls on the Polène Solé are made in France from upcycled leather offcuts, threaded with waxed cotton and finished with a smooth Italian calf handle and base.

Is the Polène Tsubi real raffia?

Yes. The Polène Tsubi is made in natural, certified-organic raffia from Madagascar, trimmed in smooth Italian calf.

How big is the Polène Solé?

The Polène Solé measures 26.5 x 15.5 x 7 cm, is 47 cm tall including the handles and weighs 666 g. It fits a phone, cardholder, keys and sunglasses.

Can the Polène Solé get wet?

The Polène Solé is sensitive to water, so keep it dry and dab off any drops with a soft cloth. The Polène Ilo in water-repellent canvas is the better choice for showery days.

Why does my new Polène Solé smell of leather?

New Polène Solé pearls smell strongly of leather at first. Polène suggests airing the bag outside its dust bag for the first few uses, and the scent fades.