Wool Coats for Women: How to Choose One That Lasts

The best wool coat for women is one in a dense wool, ideally blended with a little cashmere, in a shape that fits over a jumper and finishes below the hip. Get those two things right and the coat will last for ten winters. Our pick this season is the double-faced ME+EM Tailored Oversized Coat in Bronzed Brown ($1,180); see every coat on our ME+EM page and in the wool coats edit at Coveti.

Here is how to read a coat label, which shape suits you, how a wool coat should fit, and the ME+EM coats in stock now.

How to read a wool coat label

As a rule, the higher the wool content, the warmer the coat. A blend under half wool will look like wool but will not keep you as warm.

Wool coat shapes, and who they suit

• Oversized and boxy. Strong shoulders, a straight drop to below the knee. Fits over chunky knits. Suits most heights; tall frames carry the longest lengths best.
• Cocoon. Rounded through the back with raglan sleeves. Relaxed and easy over volume.
• Swing. Narrow at the shoulder, flaring to the hem. Flattering cropped, and good on petite frames.
• Pea coat. Mid-length, collar and lapels, a military edge. Practical every day.

The ME+EM wool coats

Tailored Oversized Coat. ME+EM calls this its signature tailoring in coat form. Padded shoulders keep a sharp shape while a double-faced wool and cashmere blend (88% wool, 8% cashmere) drapes through the body. It is double-breasted, longline and boxy, in Bronzed Brown ($1,180), Black ($1,180) and Dark Charcoal Melange ($1,180).

Heritage Oversized Coat. The Heritage Oversized Coat in Grey Melange ($1,130) is 100% wool herringbone, woven in Britain with Abraham Moon, the family-run mill that began in West Yorkshire. Single-breasted, with polished lapels and soft structure at the shoulder.

High Neck Cocoon Coat. The High Neck Cocoon Coat in Bronzed Olive ($1,030) is an Italian check wool in olive, cream and brown, mid-length, with raglan sleeves and an under-collar button that closes it to a high neck.

Crop Swing Coat. The Crop Swing Coat in Camel ($900) is a wool-cashmere blend with an exaggerated collar, raglan sleeves and an inverted back pleat that holds the swing. A cropped length is a good choice on a petite frame.

Utility Pea Coat. The Utility Pea Coat in Khaki Melange ($1,030) is a khaki wool blend in a swing shape, with military-style silver-toned buttons and a hidden button under the lapel for a high neck.

How a wool coat should fit

Try it on over the thickest knit you own. You should be able to cross your arms without the back pulling. The shoulder seam should sit at, and on an oversized coat just past, your own shoulder. Sleeves should cover the wrist bone with a jumper underneath. For length, a coat that finishes at mid-calf is the warmest and most versatile; it covers a midi skirt and looks right with trousers. If you sit between sizes in a boxy coat, size down; in a fitted coat, size up. Our ME+EM size guide has the brand measurements.

How to style a wool coat

A long camel and grey coat goes with everything, so start there. Wear it over a cashmere sweater, straight jeans and loafers by day. For the evening, throw it over a satin skirt and a lace cami, see our cocktail attire guide. A dark brown coat looks richer than black against cream knitwear. Belt an oversized coat at the waist only if it has no structure at the shoulder. For a full capsule, read our winter capsule wardrobe guide, and for every other outerwear style, our guide to luxury winter coats for women and our ME+EM coats and jackets edit.

How to care for a wool coat

Brush it after every few wears with a clothes brush, downwards, to lift dust out of the weave. Hang it on a wide, shaped hanger so the shoulders keep their line. Let it air after rain, away from a radiator. Dry clean once a season at most; over-cleaning strips the natural oils that keep wool soft. Store it in a breathable cotton bag with cedar.

Frequently asked questions

What percentage of wool should a good coat have?

Look for 60% wool and above. 80% and higher is ideal for warmth. A small amount of cashmere makes the coat softer and lighter, and a little polyamide adds strength.

Is a wool coat warm enough for winter?

A dense wool coat over a knit is warm enough for a British and most American winters. For extreme cold, choose a double-faced wool, a high neck and a mid-calf length.

What colour wool coat is most versatile?

Camel, grey and navy. Camel brightens dark outfits and suits most skin tones. Grey goes with almost everything. Dark brown is a softer alternative to black.

Should a wool coat be one size bigger?

Not usually. Buy your normal size and try it over a jumper. Oversized coats are already cut with room; sizing up makes the shoulders drop too far.

What is a double-faced wool coat?

Double-faced wool is two layers of fabric woven together, finished on both sides. A coat made from it often needs no body lining, so it is lighter and drapes more softly.

How long should a wool coat last?

With brushing, a good hanger and occasional dry cleaning, a quality wool coat lasts ten years and more.